From Bean to Cup Part 3: Processing
Once the coffee cherries are ripe, farmers and pickers harvest them. The next step is to separate the cherry from the seed - or what we call a “bean” - inside. How and when this is done is referred to as “processing,” and dramatically affects the taste of the coffee.
Washed processing
Washed (or wet) process coffee is the most common form of coffee processing. It is when the cherry is removed from the bean as soon as possible and the remaining fruit is washed off the bean (hence the name “washed” processing). This results in a coffee flavor profile that most directly reflects the terroir - the natural environment in which the plant grew, and is often described as “clean.”
Natural processing
Natural processing - the older and more traditional form of coffee processing - involves leaving the bean inside the cherry and drying them together for weeks. . After this "aging," the cherry is removed from the coffee bean. As you might expect, the flavor profile of this coffee reflects the fruitiness of the coffee cherry, as the literal fruit is allowed to sit on the bean for some time. Well-processed naturals will taste clean and intensely fruity, but it is often difficult to control all the variables in this process, as it requires low humidity, minimal rain, constant turning, and lots of space for thin layers on raised, aerated beds in order to prevent mold and funk from developing.
Honey Processed
Another common processing method is honey processing, in which some of the mucilage (sweet, sticky coating) is left on the bean and let dry. Depending on how much mucilage is intact, the coffees are called white, yellow, red, or black honey processed (white being the least mucilage) - designations which reflect the color of the dried parchment (a thin, papery layer inside the fruit that protects the beans from sudden changes in moisture).
New & Experimental Processing Methods
New and still rare processing methods called anaerobic fermentation and carbonic maceration - inspired by wine-making techniques - are starting to be used as well. These methods employ fermentation of whole coffee cherries or pulped cherries in oxygen-free environment for some number of days and then processed like a washed coffee. These methods bring out fruitiness and floral notes in coffee, but often have unique, flavor overtones distinct to these methods.
Knowing all this information, you might think, so what is the best processing method? The answer is all of them! It all depends on your preferences: do you like something very fruity? Natural or honey process might be your thing. Do you like a clean cup? Maybe go for a washed! There is no right or wrong answer or objectively “better “ coffee process.