PROCESSING
Once the coffee cherries become ripe, farmers and pickers harvest them. The next step is to separate the cherry and the sticky sweet residue (kind of like the sticky coating that you see on grape seeds when you take them out of the grape) from the seed. The method and timing of this step is referred to as processing, and it dramatically affects the taste of the coffee. More often than not, a coffee that is processed a certain way will share more attributes with a coffee that is processed the same way but comes from a different country than a coffee from the same country that is processed differently.
Washed processing
Washed (wet) processed coffee is the most common form of coffee processing. Washed processing involves removing cherry from the bean as soon as possible. What remains on the bean is the sticky tissue, mucilage - remember the sticky coating grape seeds have when you take them out? The bean is then soaked for a few hours to up to a day to allow bacteria to break down the mucilage to the point that it can easily be washed off, hence the name, washed processing. The beans are then dried and hulled to remove the “parchment” layer, a thick skin that protects the bean. This process results in a coffee flavor profile that is often described as “clean” and many argue showcases more of the innate flavor of the coffee varietal. Washed processing is very common in South and Central America.
Natural processing
Natural processing - the older and more traditional form of coffee processing often done in Ethiopia - involves leaving the whole cherry, bean still inside, and drying it on raised beds for weeks, not unlike a raisin. After the cherry is dry, the bean is removed through hulling. As you might expect, the flavor profile of this coffee tends to be more fruit-forward, as the extended drying period allows yeasts and bacteria to ferment the coffee cherry and impart more aromatic compounds to the coffee bean. Well-processed naturals will taste clean and intensely fruity. This process is difficult to monitor, as it requires low humidity, minimal rain, constant turning, and lots of space for thin layers on raised, aerated beds to ensure no mold or funk develops. Fermentations that are very extended can also impart a markedly boozy, winey, fermenty, and alcoholic character to the coffee.
Honey Processing
Another common processing method is honey processing, in which some of the mucilage is left on the bean to dry. Depending on the amount of mucilage intact, and the length of the drying time, coffees are called white, yellow, red, or black honey processed (white honey having the least mucilage and fastest drying time and black honey having the longest drying time). The color designations reflect the color of the dried parchment (the papery layer inside the fruit that protects the beans from sudden changes in moisture).
New & Experimental Processing Methods
New and experimental processing methods inspired by wine-making techniques have made a huge surge in recent years. These methods employ fermentations under more controlled conditions, with oxygen levels, temperature, time, and added microbes being some of the variables that producers modulate. These methods often have unique, distinct flavor overtones. We have been partnering with the forward-thinking producers at La Palma Y El Tucán in Colombia, headed up by Felipe and Elisa, since 2014 and have continued to purchase coffee from both their Neighbors & Crops as well as Estate and Varietals, both of which employ these newer types of fermentations.
Check out out in-depth blog on processing here.